Karl Lagerfeld cryptically described his latest Chanel couture collection to the IHT's Suzy Menkes as "[n]ew vintage — for today," presumably meaning that he referenced the house's founder more so than usual.* Indeed, the collection had lots of loose, high-waisted pants, rendered in muted grays and pinks, much like the ones that Coco Chanel was said to have fashioned for herself to go horseback riding. But while the wool, cashmere, and fur materials were even more touchable-looking than usual (thanks to Choupette's cuddly influence, which even inspired a namesake handbag), Menkes wasn't totally sold:
But fashion now is not about the actuality of intricate handwork, however beautiful. It is about perception. And the problem with this collection, for all its genteel and fragile beauty, is that it seemed dull — although there were lovely pieces, like a bla ck velvet dress with a frilled pocket in the skirt, and pants in a patchwork of lace.
The root problem was that this is not a moment to look back. It is time to clear the closet, strip everything down to clean lines and make decoration sparse. (We are talking about the Raf Simons debut at Dior here.)
Via: Suzy Menkes Found the Chanel Collection Dull
0 comments:
Post a Comment