London Collections: Men live blog ~ D-Fashions

LIVE STREAMING TODAY:

~~09:00 Sibling~~
~~13:00 Mr Start~~
~~17:00 Matthew Miller~~

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SATURDAY JUNE 16

19:00 THE FERDINANDS DO FASHION
When Rio and Anton Ferdinand turned up at the Rake show tonight we had to ask: did you watch the match last night?
"Yeah," said Rio: "but I'm not talking football."
Damn right! Who wants to talk football in the middle of London Collections: Men? The Rake show - reviewed elsewhere by my colleague Phong Luu - made a valiant tilt at making formal-wear wearable informally, mixing baggy, streety trousers with razor-sharp double breasted. There was also lots of beautiful detail applied with the sly aplomb of Danny Wellbeck using his instep to deliver a cushioned ball... oh, sorry.
Anyhow, sticking with fashion, Rio said: "I loved it. I like the cut of the blazers and the little details here and there were really nice."
Anton added: "for me the salmon blazer with the shorts and tie, I liked it." But - even for a man who wears shorts to work (sorry) - does he think they are acceptable teamed with a jacket as part of a tailored look? "After seeing that, yeah. I would wear it."
For the record Anton was in a Vivienne Westwood jacket, waistcoat and shirt, with Topman jeans and Louboutin brogues. And Rio sported an Ozwald Boateng knit blazer with red Superdry trousers. "I'm not sure where the shirt is from. You don't want to be too aware of these things." True. - Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor, The Daily Telegraph.

18:40 A VERY BOOZY BILMESY
Also outside Jonathan Saunders earlier today was hungover Alex Bilmes, the editor of Esquire magazine. His jaded state was the whirlwind reaped from playing host at Friday night's biggest London Collections: Men party (which we skipped due to the football). So how did it go?
"Well we had a great turn-out. Jon Hamm [aka Don Draper] came, Florence Welch came, Alexa Chung DJ'd, David Gandy came, Sherlock Holmes came. It was fun, it was boozy and it went on til God-knows-when." Was there bad behaviour?" No, none. But there was dancing. We had Graham Norton and David Furnish on the dancefloor which was a very Esquire moment, as you can imagine."
Did Bilmes boogie? "No actually I didn't..". Probably because it's always a bit awkward to dance in a tailored jacket - that dad at a wedding feeling? "Yeah! You end up with that white man's overbite or whatever they call it. The soft shoe shuffle. There was a bit of that. But it wasn't very expressive, my dancing. No jazz fusion."
He added: "Another great thing about the party is that it was a meeting of the mens magazines. Dylan [Jones, GQ editor] came and Jo Levin came. And I managed to wrestle Dylan in front of a step and repeat board with our logo on it, which I was pleased about. He tried to block the Esquire logo, but it didn't work." - Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor, The Daily Telegraph.

Alex Bilmes is wearing a Piombo jacket and the expression of a man who's digesting a major hangover and a bacon-burger from Byron:

Alex Bilmes PHOTO: Luke Leitch

18:30 THE GAP YAH YOOF GOES UPMARKET AT RAKE
Not often the Gap Yah Yoof plays muse in fashion, but apparently he's everyone's favourite inspirational figure today (see Christopher Shannon, below), including at Rake. Banish thoughts of said yoof bunking in the Chungking Mansions, though: Rake's traveller is decidedly more the private-riad-in-Marrakech sort, and the clothes, modelled by a global cast who looked like they had rocked up from Calcutta to Cancun, mirrored that.

PHOTOS: Philip Hollis

There were sand-dusted safari jackets that looked fit for a jaunt in the Sahara, dhoti-ish chinos and flowing djellaba-like shirts, accessorised with beads (picked up from India?) which dangled nonchalantly from wrists. The loose silhouettes were carried over to evening wear, where baggy trousers where paired with sharp blazers; any man's wardrobe would be all the better for one of its gorgeously crumpled double-breasted pea coats.
These were the easier sells: most, however, would probably need a shot of baiju before attempting the pink shorts suit - or 10… Phong Luu, fashion features coordinator, The Daily Telegraph.

16:30 HEDONISTIC ABANDON AT CHRISTOPHER SHANNON
Citing "hedonistic gap-year backpackers in south-east Asia" as inspiration behind his spring/summer 2013 collection was somewhat of a bold statement to brandish in the faces of editors and the fashion-pack, alike. And so with images of full-moon parties firmly ingrained, Christopher Shannon's show began.
Fringing was the texture du jour. From mop hair dos that put a hippy spin on the traditional curling rags of days gone by, to striped ensembles with threads literally bursting out from garments, thanks to an overzealous seamstress. This tribal tourist look crept onto everything from shirts to shorts paneling, embellishing an otherwise very wearable, sober colour palette.
Shannon's collaboration with The Cambridge Satchel Company also looked promising with the stylised satchels also receiving a tassle or two.
This mop haired, backpack boy chic was only dented slightly by the designer's devotion to the Kickers brand. The dreaded boxy school boy shoes for a trip to Asia: really Christopher Shannon? - Alice Newbold, fashion.telegraph.co.uk.

PHOTOS: Chris Pledger

16:00 PLACE YOUR ORDERS FOR JONATHAN SAUNDERS
It wasn't just the one-up, one-down staircase at the Elms Lesters Painting Rooms that contributed to the queues at Jonathan Saunders today - this is one of the most anticipated shows of London Collections: Men so far. And justly so: the womenswear crowd swoon for Saunders' colour, focus and wit and soon the fashiony menswear crowd will too, thanks to this first, full, Saunders men mega-collection.

PHOTOS: Philip Hollis

As so often with Saunders it's the prints that make you squint. Here there were polka dots suffused with graphic, geometric fades of colour on short-sleeve shirts, twinsets, T-shirts and casual jackets. There was also a rather fetching green bomber jacket (in a fabric produced by the company that does Mercedes Benz's upholstery). Plus a hefty dose of intricately wrought knitwear - jumpers are the gateway garment for the colour curious man - and even (something completely new) some Jonathan Saunders suits.
As Saunders said as he took a breather outside: "Yes, there's a lot going on in there. The ingredients are the same as the ones I use in womenswear, really. It's about textiles and colour-balance, and also about a very 'dressed' person: formal in a way. What's important in balancing those things is that there is an element of sophistication: that's what I try and do in women's and it is important in menswear as well."

Saunders takes a 'fashion' breather backstage at his LCM show. PHOTO: Luke Leitch

"I love doing it. It's the whole think of dressing yourself. I don't know if other menswear designers have that but for me it is exciting."
He added: "I've only just started with menswear, but it's so category-driven. And guys, no matter how wealthy they are, they're price sensitive as well. And that's something we've had to look at in great detail. How much is our guy going to wear on a sweater?"
By the sounds of the amount of ordering going on upstairs, the answer is probably quite a bit. Tim Blanks of Style.com's staple garment is the colourful short-sleeve shirt. And going by his assessment - "It's the third summer of love!" - that's one bulk-buying customer confirmed right there. - Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor, The Daily Telegraph.

15:00 NEOPRENE DREAM
Fashion writer Dal Chodha knows how to rock a smock fashioned from neoprene, and no mistake!

PHOTO: David Nicholls

14:30 THE ONE TO WATCH
Just looking back over the London Collections: Men pictures so far, and just want to share how much I love new boy Shaun Samson. I first came across the Central Saint Martins graduate at ITS (International Talent Support) 2011 in Trieste where he collected the prestigious Collection of the Year Award, and he was just about the nicest chap you could hope to meet. Originally from San Diego, with parents hailing from the Phillipines, Samson is going places fast after being picked up and promoted by that most trendy of spotters, Lulu Kennedy and now showing as part of Topman's MAN collective at LCM. Expect to see him striking out with his very own catwalk show soon, which will no doubt be the hottest ticket in town. Remember the name. - BW

A model on the catwalk at Shaun Samson's presentation as part of MAN, and the designer himself. PHOTO: Chris Pledger.

14:05 LESS IS MORE AT LEE ROACH
The setting for Lee Roach's spring summer show was the palatial Carlton Gardens, a stone's throw from the mall. The venue was ostentatious and provided an interesting contrast to Roach's minimalist lab-coat chic collection. The garb was monochromatic; sleeveless tunics and coats in grainy charcoal were teamed with tapered trousers. The detailing was devastatingly simplistic; singular black rucksack straps were employed to tie together the garments and neatly capped-off Roach's pared back pieces. The forensically reductive aesthetic was cleverly offset by black gladiatorial Nike trainers and flip flops. Whilst the pomp of The Queen's official birthday procession was visible through the windows, Roach's show provided a welcome reminder that sometimes less is more. - George Dennis, The Daily Telegraph.

PHOTO: Telegraph Fashion Instagram

14:00 FALSE START
Mr Start spoilt Team Telegraph to a third row seat at it's spring/summer 2013 show, and from this vantage point that I can exclusively reveal that the collection included suits in brown and blue and pink. At least, I think it did. There were certainly suit jackets - which is all I could really see over the heads of the students and bloggers in front of me. Genuine hoorahs though for the hair - the only other thing I could see. It was styled by the very excellent Alex Glover, head barber at Murdock London. - David Nicholls, Design Editor, Telegraph Magazine.

13:50 IT'S NEVER DREARY KATY EARY!

PHOTOS: Philip Hollis

Versace-esque turquoise and gold baroque-print skater T-shirts worn with matching long basketball shorts? Welcome to the weird-but-kind-of-wonderful world of Katy Eary. She may have been showing her collection one street back from Savile Row, but her look is as far removed as it's possible to get from what it has traditionally stood for. Suffice to say, she doesn't exactly embrace minimalism, our Katy. As if the shimmering T-shirts and shorts weren't enough of a statement, she sometimes layered them over white PVC drainpipe trousers and accessorised with a Mr T-style heavy gold necklace, high-tops and a kingsize white patent-leather backpack. More for the club kids, I think, rather than the beachfront at Southwold. So hip-hop it hurt. A lot. - Gareth Wyn Davies, Stella Magazine.

13:30 ALEXA PERPLEXER...

Alexa at TPIWIT striking a pose with giddy gal pal Pixi Geldof (top); and striking her SO last season pose (below). PHOTOS: REX

13:00 COCKTAIL CAUTION
More from the Esquire/MrPorter/Jimmy Choo party (hereafter simply referred to as The Party I Wasn't Invited To) where WAG model Abbey Clancy and her giraffe-like husband Peter Crouch were snapped soaking up the complimentary Belvedere Unfiltered Vodka Martini's. Here's a before and after shot of Abbey...

Woo-hoo, bring on the pole! PHOTO: REX

PS Am i the only one who thought Crouch was in Poland??!! #justsaying.

12:50 OH MAN
For the 15th season, Topman and Fashion East showed their support for emerging menswear talent by staging MAN - a three-in-one fashion show featuring the work of up and coming names in the business.
First up was Astrid Anderson, known for playing around with sportswear archetypes. Lace printed chiffon tops were layered over nylon gym kit, oversized basketball jerseys featured panels of faux fur and Kagools were cropped to just above the nipple. Oh, and we'll all be wearing toe rings and faux fur bum bags next spring.

Astrid Anderson. PHOTOS: Chris Pledger

Next up was the excellent Agi & Sam, whose collection channeled 1970s kitsch and cool in equal measure. Prints - from the pixelated to the painterly - were reminiscent of retro wallpaper and at other times vintage tapestry. A Cath Kidston-esque bird print shell suit was approximately one million times lovelier than it sounds. Socks with matching patterns were a delightful touch.

Agi & Sam. PHOTOS: Chris Pledger

The final designer of the threesome was Shaun Samson who presented an upbeat collection where kitten print T-shirts were adorned with metal spikes and lace softened up the streetwear vibe. A section of layered, oversized, checked pieces styled with woolly hats hinted at a return to grunge - with a modern lurex twist. This is, after all, the season for mixing discordant fabrics. - David Nicholls, Design Editor, The Telegraph Magazine.

Shaun Samson. PHOTOS: Chris Pledger

12:40 HAMM SANDWICH
This just in from last night's Esquire/MrPorter/Jimmy Choo party to which I WAS NOT INVITED . Anyway here's JON HAMM , yes, that's right, DON DRAPER sandwiched between Esquire editor Alex Bilmes and ex-Esquire editor, now Mr Porter's editor-in-chief, Jeremy Langmead. Jon is clearly thinking about me in this picture. Well, at least someone was eh? Sniff sniff... - BW

12:35 TOVEY TIME
Spotted on way to Katy Eary's show: the actor Russell Tovey...

PHOTO: Telegraph Fashion Instagram

12:20 ROYAL SEAL OF APPROVAL
"Queen's official birthday procession outside Lee Roach, bet she's gutted about missing #lcm"

PHOTO: Telegraph Fashion Instagram

12:10 HOWDY PARTNER
Now here's a street style look we can all learn from this season. Fashion isn't just about the way you dress, it's about fancy dress. Love the way this fellow has clashed his prints, textures and references. 10 points!

PHOTO: Telegraph Fashion Instagram

11:45 TO BIRK OR NOT TO BIRK? THE DEBATE ROLLS ON...
Help me out here. I stand pretty much alone within the Telegraph Fashion team in thinking that there's nothing wrong with a man in Birkenstocks. When i uttered this out loud recently, i was shot down by the group of wide-eyed, open-mouthed fashionistas (male and female) in my vicinity. So, to prove me right, here i present the Birkenstock clad feet of one stylish model at the Agi & Sam presentation at the MAN show today. Yes, he is wearing them with flowery socks, but that's merely a styling flourish. A styling flourish too far, some might say, but not I. I say go forth and celebrate the strappy splendour of these majestic plates! ...Just me then...? - BW

PHOTO: Telegraph Fashion Instagram

11:30 DAPPER MEN AT MAN:

PHOTO: David Nicholls

11:20 THE WONDERFUL WORLD OF E TAUTZ
The heart does sink rather when you pick up the show notes to see the designer banging on about their inspiration. But I should have known better than to doubt Patrick Grant at E Tautz, who showed his spring/summer 2013 collection in a converted wharf in Wapping. In Grant's hands the inspiration - here the explorer and travel writer Sir Wilfred Thesiger - becomes seductively beautiful and Savile Row tradition is suddenly rendered relevant and wearably modern. Modernist even. The show opened with a pair of midnight blue flat-front trousers, a single-breasted three-button jacket, a crisp white cotton shirt and a heavy, flowing fuchsia cape (Grant calls it a duster coat, but I beg to differ). From then on in it just got better and better. Of course, this being E Tautz it was all about exquisite cut, but it was also about fabulous bursts of eye-popping colour - the aforementioned fuchsia, cobalt blue, bright, bright yellow - set against navy. If anyone's going to presuade me to wear a cape or a djellaba-like overshirt next summer it's Patrick Grant. This show was wonderful, all of it. - Gareth Wyn Davies, Stella Magazine.

PHOTOS: Philip Hollis

10:35 Think the fashion posse may have arrived at E Tautz show...

PHOTO: Telegraph Fashion Instagram

10:30 INTERGALACTIC FANTASTIC AT SIBLING
The heinous 9 o'clock start didn't prevent the 'urban' crowds from flocking to the Sibling show at the hospital club. For those nursing Mr-Porter-party-induced hangovers the event pulled no punches; the soundtrack being a blaring raucous barrage of 70's punk. The anarchic ethos of Sibling was effectively realised by this collection.

Behind you! BFC Chairman Harold Tillman backstage before the Sibling presentation. PHOTO: Reuters

The show was a faceless one, the models wore a variety of fully formed headpieces and looked as if their heads had been replaced by large white or black glittering snowflakes. The knitwear ensembles were either delicately striped with sparkling foil or sporting gold star based prints. The show's intergalactic theme was confirmed by the final model to walk. It might have been due to the early hour but I was convinced I had just seen C3PO. Under the blitz of flash bulbs the headpieces shone but in doing so unfortunately upstaged some carefully crafted ensembles. - George Dennis, The Daily Telegraph

PHOTOS: Chris Pledger

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Just catching up on last night's action. Here's what you missed...

SAVILE ROW OPEN DOORS
The focus of this weekend's activities may be the shows and parties but Savile Row reminded the fashion industry of its long-established contribution to men's style with yesterday evening's Open Doors event. For two hours tailoring houses along the street led press into cutting rooms and fitting rooms, with staff on hand to explain the intricacies and complexities of creating clothing to the Row's standards.

We enjoyed rifling through original patterns for customers such as Gregory Peck and Sir Laurence Olivier (above) in Huntsman and chatting to a busy-at-work tailor stationed mannequin-like in the window of Maurice Sedwell but where was everyone else? In contrast to the popular shows the event was noticeably undersubscribed - was there any competition between Savile Row tailors and others in the men's fashion industry I asked.
More than once workers there gave me the same slightly barbed reply: Savile Row isn't really about fashion - that comes and goes - it's about style - that endures. The masses may have been missing but money was still in evidence, with Maseratis and Bentleys lining the Row and plenty of immaculately attired men in beautiful bespoke suits walking past - presumably looking the business because they do business rather than because they wanted to be snapped for some youngster's fashion blog. - John O'Ceallaigh, London editor, Telegraph.co.uk.

DIB DIB DIB IT'S XANDER ZHOU
A collection titled "Fleurdelism" generates high, 'herbaceous' expectations. Derived from 'fleur-de-lis', a stylised lily that often appears as a symbol on heraldic coats of arms and also prominently features in the World Scout emblem, Xander Zhou did not pick the collection's name on a whim. Blossoming down the catwalk were natty bomber jackets of quilt and silk, while their longer companions offered a drawstring waist. Silhouettes generally embraced movement, with Zhou clearly channeling his outdoor inspiration into the 'stylised' cuts.

But if the blurb and chirpy woodland notes played upon entrance suggested Cub Scout chic, these cubs were of the most genteel clan on the block. Crisp whites flowed into lilac and earthy colour palettes, while a couple of tattooed dungarees wearers were thrown in the mix for the ultimate scout-gone-bad image. With platform, attitude-ridden shoes juxtaposed with crisply ironed neckerchiefs ripe for the picking, this was every Girl Guide's dream. - Alice Newbold, fashion.telegraph.co.uk

I'M NOT A MODEL, I'M A FREE MAN!

PHOTO: Luke Leitch

SUPERFLY AT SUPERDRY + TIMOTHY EVEREST?
Question: when is it OK to ask a mean-looking model to stand without refreshment for two hours, all in front of a fashion crowd glugging lovely Asahi beer (I didn't check if it was Superdry) - and give him a shotgun? Answer, from, company co-founder James Holder: "When the guns are all decommissioned, and they are, so it's fine."

The shotgun was one of the props at Superdry's launch of its Timothy Everest collaboration last night. This label, as nobody can not have noticed, has been one of British fashion's biggest recent success stories. So naturally, in typical British fashion, it has taken a bit of a too-big-for-its-boots knocking recently and the once ker-ching arc of its share price has dipped considerably.

PHOTOS: Philip Hollis

Personally, I'm superwry about Superdry - who isn't sick of those pseudo-Japanese graphics and the inescapable ubiquity of its shoulder branded jackets? I wasn't really expecting to think much of this collection at all.

But... it's great. Tweedy, country-style jackets with buttoned pockets, satin lapelled black suits and 1970's cop woollen dogtooth's are the order of the day here... with no graphics. Holder, who has something slightly Simon Pegg-ish about him, conceded cheerily enough that all has not been entirely superfly at Superdry of late, then said: "What is incredible, remember, is that less than 10 years ago this company was just me and another bloke sharing a computer. We've learned a lot and made some mistakes, of course, but we've had 20 years growth in ten years. We really haven't scratched womenswear at all, we're just now getting good at denim - that's going to go major league for autumn/winter '12 - so there are all these areas we haven't scratched the surface of yet. We've been fantastic at graphics, brilliant at jackets: now it's time to do all these other areas properly. For spring/summer 13 the collection coming is so mind-blowing its going to change everyone's perception of the brand."- Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor, The Daily Telegraph.

SPENCER HART AND THE CASE OF THE TOP TELLY STAR

PHOTO: Chris Pledger

Benedict Cumberbatch, the actor best known for his BBC portrayal of Sherlock Holmes, was last night reinvented as a cigar-chomping playboy on the catwalk of London fashion week. Cumberbatch and the former England Rugby captain Lawrence Dallaglio closed the collection at Spencer Hart wearing black dressing gowns and pyjamas. The show - which refreshingly featured not only male models but women too, plus a troupe of dancers - was one of the highlights of the first of this three days men's fashion jamboree. Backstage Cumberbatch, a first-time model, said: "I've never done anything like that before - it was nerve-wracking. You have to think of a character and I went for Hugh Hefner, with the cigar and whisky." The pinstripe-besuited blonde model on Cumberbatch's arm contributed to that Hefner-esque air too.- Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor, The Daily Telegraph.

PHOTOS: Chris Pledger

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FRIDAY JUNE 15

17:00 The sun comes out at YMC
Watercolour post card images of tropical islands are projected onto screens along the catwalk and there is exotic birdsong from the speakers. Spring / summer 2013 has a distinctly holiday feel at YMC with a continuation of those island prints we've come to love from this excellent British brand. They appear on polo shirts, tailored jackets and jumpers in a subdued colour palette. There were also collegiate elements - wide striped jersey Jackets that hinted towards the Ivy League. While the opening section of the show was dominated by a soft shade of lemon - in light cotton trousers, shorts and raincoats, the finale was a series of more challenging leopard print pieces - from polos and parkas to T-shirts and baseball caps. These aside, this is a hugely wearable collection, one of the strongest of the day, and one that I suspect will appeal most to men who have an interest in clothes but are happy to leave the fashion behind. - David Nicholls, Design Editor, The Telegraph Magazine.

PHOTO: @mrporterlive / Twitter

16:50 AN OMG OUTSIDE YMC
Check out the bad-boys on this chap's feet...

PHOTO: David Nicholls

16:35 OLIVER SENCER HAS A RUSSIAN MODERNIST MOMENT
Beards (and mankles) were much in evidence on the catwalk today at Oliver Spencer, a designer who likes his models a bit menacing looking. The clothes were altogether less rugged than we've maybe come to expect of him, however, the silhouette being cleaner than of late. Ditto the palette, which majored on navies and neutrals punctuated by great blocks of vibrant colour such as Majorelle blue, emerald green, berry red and mustard (the whole lot inspired, apparently, by the work of the Russian modernists and the abstract painter Ben Nicholson). Speaking backstage, Spencer said he was particularly proud of his reworked parka, a more fitted affair with a high waisted back and single deep vent. Me, I really, really loved the jodhpur-style trousers in a thick canvassy cream cotton buttoned at the ankles, but then I wouldn't say no to any of it.

PHOTOS: Chris Pledger

PS. As for Spencer's "star" model, Gordon Richardson, the design director at Topman (see below): he made a very good job of modelling a natty navy suit, comprising a jacket with a broadish shoulder and side-adjusters. But Gordon, you've really got to work on looking mean and moody if you're going to make it... - Gareth Wyn Davies, Stella Magazine.

16:30 ALEXA GOES POSTAL
Alexa Chung is so everywhere at London Collections: Men. Martine Rose, Oliver Spencer, Topman Design - and even on top of the pillar box on the corner of Savile Row and Burlington Gardens. She was there to add a bit of YSL-shod Chungy-lustre to a shoot of the street's sharpest tailoring talent. Because she's doing some gig with the British Fashion Council she can't talk about the shows, she said - sigh - but did confirm that she's booked in between 10pm and 11pm to DJ at the Mr Porter/Jimmy Choo/Esquire party at the Corinthia Hotel. "I've got to go home and burn some CD's," she said. Now the Savile Row Open House event has just started. Most of the houses on "The Row" have thrown open their doors and workrooms to all-comers. The street is packed. For the first time in years there appears to be more people on Savile Row than there are adolescent tourists queueing outside Abercrombie and Fitch around the corner.

PHOTO: @lizmathewspr/ Twitter

16:15 SKORT SHRIFT
Could this be the first sighting on our streets of a pair of "skorts", aka the shorts-skirt hybrid for men, aka a coming trend (allegedly) in men's fashion? Spotted on Shan Temuri, a stylist, after Oliver Spencer's show. He assures me they're actually shorts "but flared". I'm not so sure. Anyway, the whole get up is by Comme des Garcons, with the exception of his chiffony cape thing at the back, which you can't see. And check out the peroxide eyebrows! - Gareth Wyn Davies, Stella Magazine.

16:00 TOMMY TIME
Check out all the fashionable faces posing and pouting for the cameras at last night's Tommy Hilfiger party to launch London Collections: Men. Say cheese!

15:25 HUNKS IN TRUNKS A-GO-GO AT ORLEBAR BROWN
Providing the dishiest model of the day so far, men's swimwear brand Orlebar Brown hosted a presentation in their swanky new store just of Regent Street. Season after season the label provides chic trucks - as favoured by James Bond - which sit somewhere in between budgie-smugglers and board shorts. The new collection saw wicker prints in various colour ways and geometrics courtesy of the David Hicks archives. Continuing to see a rise in sales of the shorter swimming trunks, the label is hoping to banish badly dressed Brits from beaches worldwide. This season Orlebar Brown is pursuing a natural progression into sportswear, with natty shorts that fold away into the smallest of bags, sweatshirts in every colour under the sun and all-weather kagools. Unfortunately during Team Telegraph's appointment, the eye-catching model had donned pieces from the sportswear collection. Orlebar Brown, next time please may we have more hunks in trunks? - Sophie Warburton, stylist coordinator, The Daily Telegraph.

PHOTO: Phillip Hollis

15:20 WE SPY A LOVELY NECK TIE
By Labour & Wait if you must know. 10 style points.

15:10 IN THE MOOD FOR ABBOUD
Citing London as the best fashion city for men, Bernardo Rojo, the creative director of American brand, Joseph Abboud very much felt like he was coming home. 'I took my first design job in London' explained Rojo but although presenting here he stayed true to the US based brand's roots. Hosting a salon-style show in the Bar Américain, Abboud presented a collection of slick sportswear in a colour palette of red, white and blue (with a little black thrown in for good measure). Post-show, the designer referenced pretty much every man's idol, James Dean, along with a modern twist courtesy of Ryan Gosling's character in 'Drive'. Models strutted in the runway in polonecks, styled under fitted blazers and shorts, while others wore macs with nipped in waists and slim cut chinos. With a nod to both the 1950's and the 80's the collection covered all bases for the modern man - wearable pieces, in innovative fabrics that can be styled up or down accordingly. Sleek and chic, even the snappiest of dressers could learn a thing or two from Abboud. - Sophie Warburton, stylist coordinator, The Daily Telegraph.

14:50 MIX IT LIKE MARTINE ROSE
Mix three parts bleached denim (oversized, Dexy's Midnight Runners proportions) with one part fake snakeskin, and one part scuba-style neoprene. Scatter in some handprint motifs, get your models to hold old band T-shirts (Pil, Screamadelica). Then top the whole thing with white, bankrobber-style facemasks. Finally bottom it with practical Velcro-strapped action-sandals of a type hitherto seen on any catwalk. Martine Rose was loopy and very niche - but fun. - Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor, The Daily Telegraph.

PHOTOS: Phillip Hollis

14:40 FIX UP, LOOK SHARP
While you're waiting for the next show to drop, take a look at London editor, John O'Ceallaigh's guide to the emerging stars of Savile Row.

14:15 GOR-BLIMEY!
Backstage at rehearsals for Oliver Spencer show and catch Gordon Richardson, design director at Topman, with his trousers round his ankles, revealing striped jersey trunk knickers. The reason? He begged Oliver for a cameo on the catwalk. This is a picture of him preparing (with trousers on)... - Gareth Wyn Davies, Stella Magazine.

13:40 TOPMAN'S ARTY SPORTY SHOW
When the American graffiti cum neo Expressionist artist Jean-Michel Basquiat is mentioned in the pre-show blurb you have a pretty good idea what to expect. And so Topman Design presented a collection which was heavy on painterly prints which ranged from refined brush strokes, to those of the 'dab and splodge' variety.

Fuchsia, orange, red and various fluoro shades were the mainstay of a collection that included such delights as a Prince of Wales check shorts jumpsuit, and a section of Amercian football aertex crop tops. One genuine highlight was a series of lightweight tailored jackets that had been heavily lasercut. When worn with an underlayer of a different colour, it created a striking polka dot effect through the surface of the jacket. This was by no means a collection designed for an Everyman - the shapes (much of them oversized) were just as challenging as the prints and palette, but Topman Design's core clientele of urban street style youff fashionistas will not be disappointed.- David Nicholls, Design Editor, The Telegrpah Magazine.

PHOTOS: Chris Pledger

13:30 TINIE PROBLEM

13:00 ANOTHER GREEN BEAN HITS THE SCENE
Sir Philip Green and his daughter Chloe we hear from quite regularly, but today the lesser spotted Green - Brandon - put in an appearance at the Topman Design show. Our first question - naturally - was what is he wearing: head-to-toe Topman? "All Topman. Except for the jacket, it's Neil Barrett. I was told to wear Topman but I couldn't find it this morning when I was rumagging." Apparently Brandon rolled out of bed "four minutes" before the Green limo was due to depart. So, as he can put together a look like that in four minutes, does Brandon plan to do a Chloe and design his own line?

"Personally I have no intention of designing. I stick with my dad, I started working with him about a year ago [in the business side of Arcadia]. But obviously as dad says product is the key part of any business, and in fashion, no matter how good you are at the business part you have to be involved in the product too. Topman I think is performing as well as any brand in the high street. Globally across the world Topman is the business in the Arcadia group which is performing hands-down, the best..".

And does he ever get his dad to try and different look? "No - I wouldn't even try!" - Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor, The Daily Telegraph.

12:45 WAKE UP CALL

12:30 POCKET ROCKETS
It's all about a pocket square at the moment don't you know? Check out these dapper dan's rocking the shows today. I say!

12:00 COOL MAN LUKE
Luke Day the Editor of GQ Style - and a stylist of some renown - has fully mastered the fashion Rock God look. For those who want to "Steal His Style" Luke's wearing a James Long shirt, various chains (Gucci, Jade Jagger, and a "God" medallion he bought in the church of Browns), plus some Topman Design jeans. Shows at the top of Luke's list are James Long and Martine Rose, plus MAN. He said: "we should all appreciate that without Topman there wouldn't be a London mens' fashion week at all." That suntan he added, not fake: he's just back from holiday. - Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor, The Daily Telegraph.

11:50 HACKETT GET INTO GREAT GATSBY MODE

PHOTOS: Phillip Hollis

Hackett harked back to a lost, glorious, halcyon age this morning - the time when bankers wore bowlers, carried brollies, and could be trusted. An 18-strong phalanx of models carrying the traditional City accessories and wearing dapper double and single breasted suits - some a bit too loud to be convincingly vintager banker - closed the label's show at the Royal Opera House. Elsewhere, there was a noble and determined push for paisley-printed trousers - a big womenswear trend - to translate into menswear. But I'm not sure about it will succeed. Spanish-owned Hackett usually riffs on Englishness but much of today's collection - the seersucker jackets, baker boy caps, cream lined peaked lapel suits and white brogues - had something a little Great Gatsby-ish about them. - Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor, The Daily Telegraph.

The finale of city gents at Hackett. PJHOTO: Phillip Hollis

11:40 SOMETHING FOR THE LADIES
You know when a model's really big, because they sit front row instead of pounding the catwalk: David Gandy front row at Hackett.

PHOTO: mrporterlive / Instagram

11:06 SPENCER SOULBOY
Spencer Hart is a show to watch out for this afternoon - Benedict Cumberbatch and womenswear are set for catwalk cameos. Nick Hart said last night his collection this time round is going to be heavily music-influenced, then started reminiscing about competing in Soulboy dance-offs at a nightclub called Crackers. "I was a terrible dancer, though." - Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor, The Daily Telegraph.

10:55 LOU DALTON
For spring/summer 2013 Lou Dalton has shifted her focus from the battle fields of WW1 to the playing fields of a very modern age. It was more 'sport luxe' than sportswear however, with a major focus on combining discordant fabrics. Panels of suede were added to cotton shirts. Velvet and jersey are combined on sweat tops. Airtex panels added a pleasing texture to sharply tailored jackets. Tailoring in general was very strong - and heavily structured thanks to a generous use of panelling. Alexa Chung arrived with British Fashion Council chairman Harold Tilman giving us the first front row pap frenzy of London Collections: Men; while swimmer Mark Foster and Frankie Goes to Hollywood singer Hollie Johnson were also in attendance. - David Nicholls, Design Editor, The Telegrpah Magazine.

PHOTOS: Chris Pledger

10:45 Is Liam Gallagher the new Paul Smith?
The Oasis... sorry, Beady Eye singer's Beatles/Mod influence brand, Pretty Green, is to open a standalone store in Tokyo next month. He's already got 11 shops in Britain. - Luke Leitch, deputy fashion editor, The Daily Telegraph.

10:30 BREAKFAST WITH STEPHEN WEBSTER
Stephen Webster kicked off the inaugural London Collections: Men shows with a busy-for-9-in-morning breakfast at Hix for his new mens jewellery collection. Called 'Highwayman', it was inspired by his yearly cross-America roadtrips (in his wheels of choice, a rather cool vintage Thunderbird). Hence, necklaces and bracelets centred on roadsigns and rings came as "rotating wheels". A chirpy Webster told Team Telegraph that he was planning on doing another sojourn from Colorado to the Napa Valley this year - "It's the only time I can get away from my family!". His road buddy of choice? "My mechanic!" Sensible man.

Mmmmmmushroom's with creme fraiche at Stephen Webster.

The Red Snapper cocktails (gin and tomato juice and fancy fry-ups served were top notch, but Webster had another trick up his sleeve. Taking to the bar-cum-catwalk, he annouced there was going to be a show. What he didnt tell us was that Martin Kemp, Gary Kemp and Nicky Clarke would be among the models. They goodnaturedly did their best Zoolanders and everyone cheered - although Kemp got rather bashful when we asked for a picture of his best Blue Steel. Clarke and Webster had no such reservations, though - check out their pouts. Early contenders for best BS of the week? - Phong Luu, Fashion Features Co-ordinator, The Daily Telegraph

Stephen Webster and Nicky Clarke pull their best Blue Steels for our camera.

Nicky Clarke, Stephen Webster, Martin Kemp and Gary Kemp strut their stuff. PHOTO: Phillip Hollis

10:00 ALEXA ARRIVES
No London fashion event would be complete without the British Fashion Council's Young Style ambassador, Miss Alexa Chung...

9:50 AND WE"RE OFF!
The first London Collections: Men kicks off proper this morning with... a breakfast. Why is it men can't do anything on an empty stomach? Jeweller Stephen Webster is playing host - more of this later. While we're waiting for the first show to begin (Lou Dalton 10am live streamed above), news has reached our inbox of the first bit of celebrity catwalk action. Sherlock Holmes AKA benedict Cumberbatch, will 'walk' in Spencer Hart's show today at 5pm. Spencer Hart dressed Benedict Cumberbatch for the BAFTA TV awards and the Golden Globes this year. If you're in Benedict's fan club - affectionately known as 'The Cumberbitches', get thee to the Old Selfridges Hotel where you might catch a glimpse of the man himself. Just don't tell him i sent you...

THURSDAY JUNE 14

PRINCE CHARLES: FASHION ICON? ME?
At a reception at St James Palace to officially launch London Collections: Men, Prince Charles batted off suggestions he was a sartorial icon. Luke Leitch went along to meet His Royal Highness and ask the all important question: what are you wearing? Read all about his adventures here...

Prince Charles takes the mic. PHOTO: REX