Tuesday, June 5, 2012

The Queen's Diamond Jubilee: The fashion verdict


Once upon a time, Tory Women were famously not for turning. But different eras call for different, humbler tactics and at today's thanksgiving service in St Paul's Cathedral, Samantha Cameron proved herself to be in perfect step with the government when she nimbly executed a major U-turn. After the Royal Wedding's hat-gate, she chose the path of least resistance with an artistic Stephen Jones swirl that, while faintly reminiscent of a draught-excluder-cum-cream-puff (served, one assumes, cool, not reheated), managed to look very fetching. There's something wonderfully British about that.

This was the first time during the festivities that we got a good look at the political wives. Poor things. Who'd be them? But actually, it wasn't a disaster. Sam Cam's dark, tailored, silK floral-print dress by Paul Smith and LK Bennett shoes were, unanimously, a winner: discreet yet striking. But she already knew that, having frugally pre-aired the frock at a party conference back in 2010. As an ambassador for London Fashion Week, Mrs Cameron has mastered the art of investing wisely and is reaping the benefits with a growing roster of classic outfits that she can repeatedly wheel out on momentous occasions. She will shortly be holding seminars on fiscal common sense to which the Chancellor the Exchequer is warmly invited.

IN PICTURES: Queen's Diamond Jubilee: What the royals wore

In other breaking news, a new colour was christened. Tory Taupe, worn by Fiona Hague, Frances Osborne and Theresa May, is the new Tory Blue. And doesn't it work well with all those Tory Taupe (formerly known as Nude) shoes?

Seated not a million geographical miles away in the Cathedral from the taupes, but light years in terms of dramatic brio, was Miriam Clegg, resplendent in a show-stealing, form-fitting, deep rose-pink short-sleeved dress, topped with an ebulliently huge fabric rose, by Spanish designer Vicky Martin Berrocal, hat by Gina Foster (one of Team Telegraph's personal favourite hatters), shoes by Jimmy Choo and a purse from Kayu, an independent, ethical designer stocked on Livia Firth's website. International, glitzy, with some good intentions chucked in at the last minute, and like Lib-Dem yellow, at the glowing end of the colour spectrum, Mrs Clegg's outfit couldn't have been more Coalition if Simon Hughes had styled it himself. Not that design is remotely his strong point. But then nor is the Coalition.


Left to right: Zara Phillips wearing a Karen Henriksen hat and Her Majesty in an outfit designed by Angela Kelly. PHOTO: REUTERS/GETTY

Justine Miliband never really stood a chance against that little lot - and indeed there was barely a shot of her, even though her navy dress and polka-dot saucer-hat achieved a jaunty restraint. And that's quite an oxymoronic achievement. Jaunty saucer hats are the order of the hat this season by the way, although Zara Phillips's Karen Henriksen-designed horn hat overstepped jaunty and very nearly reached Bullingdon levels of braggadocio .

IN PICTURES: Queen's Diamond Jubilee: Her Majesty's best accessories

Oddly, it was the men who seemed to stumble today. The Prince of Wales, normally impeccable, wore a morning coat with a contrasting trim that split office opinion. Dashing or distracting depending on your taste, it's highly possible that the trim is steeped in mystical tradition. Or it may symbolise that his Highness is opening a party to launch London Collections: Men next week and has been taking notes from David Beckham.

Prince William meanwhile, though technically more entitled than most to wear a Made In Chelsea -style shirt-with-contrasting-collar, opted for a high-risk venture by choosing something indelibly associated with City boys.

At least the Royals weren't playing Hide-One's-Background. If ever an event demanded morning suits, this was it. The Prime and Deputy Prime Ministers both swallowed the bitter pill of their public school educations and privileged backgrounds to cast all thoughts of lounge suits behind them. If they're good enough for Wayne Rooney, the duo probably reasoned, then not wearing them is probably self-defeating. It's just not true to say they have learned nothing these past two years.

IN PICTURES: Queen's Diamond Jubilee: 60 years of fashion hits

Which brings us to the day's major controversy: the length of Sally Bercow's creased black dress. From the outcry on Twitter, you'd expect it to have been on speaking terms with her crotch, but it in a startling breach with Bercowian tradition, it reached all the way down to her mid-thighs. Obviously it would have been even more appropriate had it grazed the knees. But if her husband had worn it, it would have.


Left to right: The Duchess of Cambridge and Prince William, John Bercow and his wife Sally PHOTOS: GETTY

The Duchess of Cambridge came to terms with covering her enviable legs years ago - and proved in the process that knee-length is the most elegant versatile choice. Sarah Burton for McQueen is proving to be the Duchess's go-to designer for the great set pieces of state, and that exquisite peachy-flesh coloured lace sheath dress, worn with with matching Jane Taylor hat and shoes, showed why. It's another timeless, ageless triumph from Burton and by some miracle it didn't turn see-through in the rain. Kate, with her elegant posture (no word as yet on where we can buy that but I'll keep you posted) wore it beautifully.

The Duchess of Cambridge's fashion hits and misses in pictures

And is it her head-girl influence that's now making itself evident in the younger royals? The white horizontal stripes on Princess Beatrice's blue coat by London-based Kinder Aggugini weren't entirely flattering, but both sisters are dressing in more streamlined, elegant clothes than was the case even a year ago. Or is the elegance seeping through the Windsor wardrobe down to older counsel? Camilla will never be loved in some quarters, but sartorially, she almost never gets it wrong. Today's geometric-printed silk coat by Bruce Oldfield was a case in point: perfect colour and cut for the Duchess. Her hats may have become increasingly epic as the celebrations wore on, and maybe you wouldn't have wanted to be sitting behind today's Phillip Treacy, but from the front it looked wonderful.


The Prince of Wales and the Duchess of Cornwall PHOTO: GETTY

However last word must be with the two redoubtable women at the centre of all this. Like the designer Suzannah, who dressed Princess Eugenie yesterday, Angela Kelly, who designed three of Her Majesty's outfits this weekend, has emerged as a star. Really, is there any outfit more perfect for an 86-year-old monarch than a mint-green silk-tulle coat and dress, embroidered with tiny star-shaped and embellished with silver thread and crystals with matching hat and chiffon panels draping from the shoulders? Along with all the other memories of the past four days, I hope we can all walk away with the following wisdom: our Queen is matchless, Swarovski shares are worth considering and the savvy should always carry thermals.


Via: The Queen's Diamond Jubilee: The fashion verdict

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